|
1. What nutrients should I be using?
There are many brands of nutrients that are available to hydroponic growers. The grower should first decide if they want to grow organically or conventionally. The type of growing medium will also determine what type of nutrient a grower should use e.g. if coco growing medium is used then you should consider using nutrients that are designed for coco (like Canna Coco nutrients). The crop stage will also determine what nutrient should be used e.g. a vegetative nutrient formula should be used when a plant is in vegetative stage (such as Super Veg A and Super Veg B) and a flowering nutrient such as Super Bloom A and Super Bloom B should be used for when the plant enters flowering. Dry nutrients tend to be a little more difficult to mix than liquid nutrients, especially if they are old, but they are also easier to use (only one part to mix) and cost less. Ultimately, the brand of nutrient which the hydroponic grower should use is purely up to the grower to decide, but Urban Gardener is always available to help you make the decision.
2. Can you use the same nutrients for soil and hydro?
Nutrients that are used for hydroponics can be used for soil crops. Hydroponic nutrients are minerals which are instantly available to the plant not matter what the growing medium. On the other hand, not all soil nutrients can be used for hydroponics. Some chemical soil nutrients are slow release; this slow release is in adequate for the high performance of hydroponic systems. These types of nutrients also create sludge when mixed with water which can cause costly blockages in hydroponic systems. Organic nutrients which are also ideal for soil production are usually not ideal for hydroponic systems. These nutrients need micro-organisms and time to break down and become available to the plant. Plants don’t actually eat organic fertilizers; rather, micro-organisms present in the growing media eat the organic material and process it into something the plant can utilize. If you decide to use organic nutrients in a hydroponic system, we recommend using mediums like coco coir or Ready-Gro, which provide an excellent environment for beneficial bacteria.
3. How often should I feed my plants?
For soil growers, plants can be fed once every second or third watering. If plants are fed with every watering then nutrients can buildup and lockup becomes a problem causing stunted growth, If you prefer to feed with every watering cut back on the concentration, use 1/3 of what is called for. You can always try pushing the concentration up on a few plants to see there reaction. If you get a build-up you will notice a symtom called “crows foot” (curling downwards of the leaves), leaf burn, deficiency symptoms, burnt and damaged root system and decreased yields.
For hydroponic growers, plants can be fed with every watering. The watering cycle will depend on plant growth stage, size, room temperature, growth medium and hydroponic system. Small plants, such as seedlings and clones recently transplanted and plants in early vegetative stage, growing in rockwool, will require watering only once every 4-6 hours. As the plant grows bigger and enters flowering and fruiting then the water requirements of a plant increases. The watering cycle will then be every 2-4 hours. A grow room temperature of 80 – 90 °F will require more watering cycles per day than a grow room with a temperature of 65 – 70 °F. This is due to the higher transpiration rate of plants at higher temperatures. Hydroton Rocks and perlite require more frequent watering than coco fiber and Ready-Gro, which requires more watering cycles than rockwool. The watering duration for a drip system will be longer than for an ebb and flow system. The reason for this is that the drip system will emit water at a slow rate where as the ebb and flow system completely floods and saturates the growing medium in a few minutes. Aeroponic systems require frequent watering cycles; a burst of nutrient solution for a duration of 30-60 seconds is required every 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Why do growers oxygenate their nutrient solution?
While the plants leaves require CO2, the plants root system needs oxygen. If the roots are not getting enough oxygen then the plant will become stunted. The leaves may show signs of over-watering; the root system will be poor and begin to die. Root rot will also become a problem and the nutrient solution will begin to have a rotting smell. Root rot pathogens thrive in anaerobic conditions whereas beneficial organisms thrive in high oxygen conditions. Growers that oxygenate their nutrient solution help provide dissolved oxygen for the roots and the beneficial organisms, while suppressing root rot pathogens. As the water temperature increases, the dissolved oxygen level decreases. It is extremely important that growers oxygenate their nutrient solution, especially in summer.
5. Is it better to grow organically or conventionally?
Some growers testify that organics produce better tasting crops; this may be true due to various organic components that become available to the plant during the breakdown process of organic matter. For this to be completely true the plant requires both organic plant and animal matter. For most organic nutrients, a breakdown process needs to occur for the nutrients to become available to the plant. This breakdown process is preformed by micro-organisms found in soil. These micro-organisms break down the organic matter into nitrates, ammonium, potassium oxides etc. These are exactly the same as what the conventional nutrients provide to the plants. The organic process takes time and the micro-organisms also consume some of the nutrients that the plants require. Plants grown using conventional nutrients tend to grow faster and yield more, but it’s also easier to over-fertilize plants and salt buildup can be a problem if you don’t leach periodically. Correcting deficiencies is also easier with conventional nutrients since they are so readily available to the plant. Organically grown plants rarely have a problem with salt buildup and flavor can often be better than conventionally-grown plants. Here are some examples of conventional (mineral) and organic nutrients that Urban Gardener supplies:
Conventional:
· Flora series
· Super Veg and Super Bloom
· Canna Series
Organic:
· Pure Blend and Pure Blend Pro
· Earth Juice
· Age Old
Organic growers also use organic sprays for controlling leaf pests and natural predators for controlling insect pests such as white flies, aphids, spider mites and thrips. Chemical sprays produce instant results against pests and also provide residual coverage. Chemical sprays can cause bitter taste on fruits and vegetables and can be a health hazard to people. The best results are gained from a combination of both systems. Provide the plant with chemical nutrients and enhancers and use organic pest control. This will eliminate the bitter taste that chemical sprays can leave on the crop. Examples of organic pest control are:
Neem Oil – Produced from the seeds of the neem tree. It is cold pressed. Neem oil causes maturity of insect pests to be retarded, thus stopping the pests from breeding. Neem oil will not kill insects. Application rate is 1 (5ml) teaspoon per quart plus ½ (2.5ml) teaspoon of dishwashing liquid or wetting agent such as Penetrator or Coco Wet.
Pest Out – Contains clove oil, garlic oil, cottonseed oil, various acids and sugars. This product controls mites, thrips and aphids. The application rate is 3 (15ml) teaspoons per quart.
Caterpillar Killer – Contains Bacillus thuringiensis. This product controls leaf-eating caterpillars and loopers. The application rate is 1 to 2 teaspoons per gallon.
Insect Killing Soap – Contains potassium salts of fatty acids. This product controls white flies, mites and aphids.
Gnatrol – Contains Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israelensis. This product controls fungus gnat larvae in the growing medium.
Serenade – Contains Bacillus subtilis. This product controls powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, leaf blight and other leaf fungi. It can also be applied to the root system to help control root rot. Application rate of 4 oz per gallon of spray mix. Serenade is also available in a ready-to-use spray bottle.
Mildew Cure – Contains clove oil, garlic oil, cottonseed oil, various acids and bicarbonates. This product controls powdery mildew. The Application rate is 2-3 (10 - 15 ml) teaspoons per quart.
Sulfur Burner / Vaporizor – Sulfur burners’ burn sulfur, which creates sulfur vapor. This vapor alters the pH of the leaf surface which controls powdery mildew and slows the breeding process of insects. Powdery mildew control is effective as long as the sulfur remains on the leaf. Dusting the leaves will remove the sulfur. The application of sulfur should be applied at night time when the lights are off. The room should not be disturbed by the grower or exhaust fans for 4 hours while the burner is operating. The grower should not enter the room during operation.
SM-90 – Contains coriander oil, canola oil and Triethanolamine (this is a pH buffering agent). SM-90 can be used in the root zone and as a foliar spray. Its purpose is to control fungi. In the root zone it controls root rot pathogens and on the leaves it will control powdery mildew. Apply 2-3 ml per gallon of nutrient solution for the root zone and 1 part SM-90 to 5 parts water for foliar spraying. It also seems to have a bug repellant quality
Hydroguard – Contains Bacillus subtillis and Bacillus amyloiquefaciens. Both these mirco-organisms suppress the development of fungi development thus controlling root rot pathogens in the root zone. Apply at a rate of 1-3 (5-15ml) teaspoons per gallon of nutrient mix. For soil gardens apply every 30-90days. For hydroponic gardens using Hydroton rock, perlite or aeroponic systems, re-inoculation should occur every 7 days, whereas coco, Ready-Gro and rockwool should be re-inoculated every 14 days.
Do you have to use all 3 of GH’s Flora Series at the same time?
All three parts of the GH Flora series are required to be used at the same time. The ratios that are used of each part will change with the different growth stages of the plant. During the vegetative stage more Flora Grow and Flora Micro will be used than the Flora Bloom. As the plant starts flowering then all parts will be used equally. When the plant is in full bloom and fruiting then more Flora Bloom and Flora Micro will be used than Flora Grow. Growers using tap water should use Flora Micro Hardwater; the regular Flora Micro is primarily for Reverse Osmosis water or tap water with a very low TDS level.
6. What is the difference between an enhancer and a nutrient?
Nutrients are stand-alone, in other words plants can be grown successfully with nutrients with out the need for enhancers. Enhancers are not stand alone. Enhancers are used in addition to nutrients and are designed for a specific task, e.g. bloom stimulation, root development, flavor, etc.
Examples:
Root Stimulators – Rhizotonic, Green Fuse Root, Super Nova
Growth Stimulators – Green Fuse Grow, Floralicious Grow
Flower and Fruit stimulators – Bloom Blaster, KoolBloom, PK 13/14, Monster Bloom, Green Fuse Bloom.
Flavor – Sweet, Floralicious Bloom.
7. How should a grower mix nutrients?
It is important that a grower should mix their nutrients separately, e.g. first apply part A into the reservoir and mix, and then apply required amounts of part B to the reservoir and mix. A two or three part nutrient solution should never be added together before being added to the reservoir (see “Why are some nutrients split into A and B formulas”). At this point a ppm and a pH reading should be taken. If the grower is adding enhancers then the enhancers should be added to the reservoir separately. A ppm and pH reading should be taken after each enhancer addition to the reservoir. Once the grower has added all the required nutrients and enhancers then the pH of the nutrient solution must be adjusted to 5.8 to 6.2, 6 being ideal.
What are some good enhancers for me to get started with?
Enhancers are designed for growers to be able to get the maximum performance out of their plants. Please note that when using enhancers the pH and TDS of the nutrient solution should be closely monitored. The pH and TDS levels should always remain within the optimal range for each growth stage.
Rooting
Rhizotonic – enhances root growth, thus creating more feeder roots. Rhizotonic also helps plants overcome stress such as transplant shock. For the seedling and clone stage use 3 (15ml) teaspoons per gallon. For mid and late vegetative stages use 1½ (7.5ml) teaspoons per gallon. From flowering till the end of harvest use ½ (2.5ml) teaspoon per gallon.
FulMag – enhances root development and allows better nutrient absorption by the root system. The application rate is 3 (15ml) teaspoons per gallon.
Growth
Floralicious Grow – Application rate is 1 (5ml) teaspoon per gallon from early growth stage through to late growth.
Bloom
Bloom Blaster – This product should be used from the second week of flowering through to the last week before harvesting. Bloom Blaster helps stimulate the plant to produce flowers and increases fruit size and mass. The application rate is 1 (5grams) per gallon of water.
Floralicious Bloom – This taste enhancer should be used from early flowering until harvest. Application rate is 1 (5ml) teaspoon per gallon.
Sweet – This is also a flavor enhancing product, it can be used form early growth through to harvesting. Sweet can be used in the place of Floralicous Grow and Bloom.
8. What is the difference between SM-90 and Hydroguard?
Hydroguard contains two strains of micro-organisms, whereas SM-90 contains organic extracts and a pH buffer. Both products target the same fungi pathogens. The Bacillus strains in Hydroguard suppress the development of root rot pathogens by releasing antibiotics. The oils in SM-90 create unfavorable conditions for fungal development. These two products should not be used together as the oils in SM-90 will suppress the activity of Bacillus.
What is the difference between B’Cuzz and Green Fuse Stimulators?
There is very little difference if any between the B’Cuzz and Green Fuse Stimulators. They are both derived from the same organic formula and they have the same application rates. One company came up with the original formula and the other company acted as the bottler. Eventually, the two companies parted ways and now we have two products. It is also rumored (and many Urban Gardener customers claim they have noticed the difference) that the B’Cuzz product is a diluted version of the Green Fuse product, which is why Urban Gardener switched from carrying B’Cuzz to Green Fuse.
9. What is the difference between Dark Energy and Super Nova?
Dark Energy and Super Nova are two distinctly different enhancers that work quite well together. Dark Energy is a blend of essential L-amino acids, beneficial vitamins and bio-nutrients. Dark Energy uniquely allows faster and greater ion penetration of the cell walls, visibly enhancing the rate of growth. On the other hand, Super Nova is a cytokine enhancer. Cytokines aid in cell division, the more cytokines present the greater the rate of cell division and therefore the faster the plant grows. Dark Energy and Super Nova are a great one-two punch. As the Dark Energy allows for greater nutrient uptake, this increased uptake helps to feed the new cells that the Super Nova has generated.
10. Do I need to add any enhancers to the Flora Nova series?
Enhancers are highly recommended but not required with the Flora Nova series. General Hydroponics recommends using their enhancers for the Flora Nova series.
Diamond Nectar – should be used all the way through the plants life.
Flora Shield – should be used all the way through the plants life.
Floralicious Grow – for early to late vegetative stages.
KoolBloom – from late flowering to harvest.
Floralicious Bloom – from early flowering through to harvest.
Other enhancers such as PK 13\14, Monster Bloom, Bloom Blaster, FulMag, Green Fuse Grow and Bloom and Liquid Karma all can be used with the Flora Nova series.
Test Equipment FAQs
11. What is pH, why do I have to worry about it, and how do I maintain it?
pH stands for “Potential of Hydrogen” and is the symbol for the hydrogen ion (H+) in liquids. pH has a range from 0 (acidic) – 7 (neutral) – 14 (alkaline). For hydroponics, we are aiming for a pH between 5.5 to 6.2 (slightly acidic); this is suitable for most hydroponic crops. Ensuring that the pH remains within this range will help maintain good plant health. Keeping the pH in this range ensures that nutrients are readily available to the plant. Once the grower goes above or below this optimal range certain nutrients start becoming unavailable to the plant (e.g. – iron deficiencies will appear at a pH of 6.5 and above). pH is maintained by adding either pH Up or pH Down (see “What is pH Up and Down?”).
12. What is pH Up and Down?
pH Up is potassium hydroxide and pH Down is phosphoric acid (commercial growers will sometimes also use Nitric acid and Sulfuric acid). Customers who use tap water will normally need to use pH down to balance the pH of their nutrient solution. Tap water tends to have a lot of carbonates which tends to buffer tap water at a higher pH. Customers who use RO water will need to use pH Up as the reverse osmosis strips the tap water of all the carbonates, thus leaving the water with no buffering ability. The nutrients the growers use to feed their plants is acidic, and once the grower has applied all the required nutrients and enhancers the reservoir pH can be below 5. This is too low for plants; thus pH Up needs to be used in order to raise the pH to 6. Customers using both pH Up and Down should take care when using these products as both are very concentrated. Only small amounts should be used at a time until the customer becomes familiar with the products.
13. What is TDS, PPM and EC, why do I have to worry about it, and how do I maintain it?
TDS, PPM and EC represent the amount of nutrient salts that are dissolved in water. Pure water will have a TDS, PPM or EC reading of 0. Distilled water will have a reading just above 0 (e.g. 4ppm or 6µS) and RO water about 5 - 30ppm. Total Dissolved Solids is measured as PPM (Parts per Million). Electrical Conductivity (EC) is measured in milliSiemens (mS) or microSiemens (µS), depending on the type of meter. To find out why and how you need to maintain these levels, see “What ppm should be given to plants”.
TDS PPM EC
Total Dissolved Solids Parts Per Million Electrical Conductivity
ppm ppm mS or µS
14. What PPM should be given to plants?
Different plants require different strengths of nutrient solution, e.g. lettuce cannot be fed the same nutrient strength as tomatoes.
Plants should never be subjected to a sudden increase of more than 200ppm in the nutrient solution from one watering to the next. The transition from one growth stage to the next should take place over a few days. Clones and seedling should always be fed a low ppm (nutrient strength) in the beginning. Over the next few days the ppm’s can be increased up to 800ppm. Clones that are subjected to a ppm strength of 800ppm straight after transplanting will go into stress and shock. Clones and seedlings should always be kept for at least one week in the vegetative stage before attempting to put the plants into the stress of flowering. This gives the plant some time to acclimate to its new environment and also gives the grower a chance to gradually increase the nutrient strength.
15. How do I properly store my meters?
pH Meter
Always remember to keep the pH probe moist when not in use. It is best to use pH Electrode Storage Solution; if you have run out of storage solution you can use pH 4 solution as an alternative. For the Hanna HI98129 black combo meter, place storage solution in the well of the cap that the pH electrode (not the TDS electrode) rests in. It is not advisable to store the EC/TDS/CF/PPM probe in any storage solution.
TDS Meter
The best way to store your TDS meter is to keep it clean and dry. TDS meters do not require any storage solutions. DO NOT store the TDS meter in distilled water.
For long term storage, make sure that the batteries are removed from the meter as leaking batteries will corrode the circuit board rendering the meter useless. None of our meters’ warranty covers leaking battery damage. For long term storage of the pH meter it is best if the probe is stored in sufficient storage solution; if the solution evaporates then the pH probe will dry out.
How long should my meters last?
The warranty on pH and TDS Meters is one year. The warranty on pH probes is 6 months. If the pH probe is looked after as directed it can last one to two years. TDS probes can last longer than pH. It is quite common for TDS meters to last a number of years with good care.
16. How do I use a digital meter to test soil pH?
1:2 Dilution Method
1. Mix 3 oz. of soil with 6 oz. of distilled water
2. Let mixture stand for 15 to 20 minutes
3. Filter liquid into clean cup
4. Take reading
17. How often do I need to calibrate my pH/TDS meters?
All pH and TDS meters need to be continuously calibrated; as time passes by and the more you use your pH meter, it will continually lose calibration. As the meter’s batteries get older it will also lose its calibration. Keeping the meter calibrated will help keep your plants in good health and at optimal growth. All pH and TDS meters must be recalibrated every time you change the batteries. It is good practice to calibrate your meters once a week, especially if the meters are being used daily.
Propagation FAQs
18. How do I start my seeds?
It is always a good idea to soak seeds over night. This will make sure that the seeds absorb enough water to germinate quickly. If seeds are left to soak for too long they will begin to germinate; this can be dangerous for the seed as the radical (root) can be damaged when planting the seed. If the radical is damaged then the seed will die.
Once the seeds have soaked for 8 - 12 hours they can be planted out into either peat pellets, rockwool cubes, rapid rooter plugs or oasis cubes. Be sure to soak the peat pellets in water before planting the seed. This will only take a few minutes. Rockwool needs to be pre-soaked at a pH of 5 or treated with Rockwool Soak before planting seeds into it.
Once the seed has germinated and the cotyledons (first pair of leaves) have emerged the seedling will require light. Fluorescent lights are the best for this purpose. A grower can use either an Envirolite T-5 Cloning Kit, a 2’ - two bulb T5 fluorescent fixture, a 4’ - four bulb fluorescent fixture with 6500k bulbs or a compact fluorescent 150w or 200w daylight bulb to supply light for the seedlings. It is not recommended that a HID light be used for young seedlings or clones unless it is positioned high enough above the plants so as not to dry them out.
Seeds and seedlings should only be given water until the first true leaves have developed. Once the first true leaves have expanded out then a mild strength (¼ strength) grow nutrient solution should be given to the seedlings. Giving seedlings too strong a nutrient will cause the seedling to go into shock, burn the young developing roots and possibly kill the seedling. Once the grower has started feeding his seedlings with a mild strength nutrient it is advisable the grower use a root enhancer such as Rhizotonic or Green Fuse Root. It is also a good idea that the grower use Hydroguard or SubCulture to protect the new developing root system against root pathogens. This will help create a strong, healthy seedling.
A seedling is ready to be planted out when it is 2-3 inches tall and the roots are coming out the bottom of the rockwool cube or peat pellet. When transplanting a seedling it is important to plant the seedling with the least amount of stress as possible. At transplant the grower should use NutriBoost. This product has a mixture of vitamins, hormones and auxins which help the stressed seedling produce new roots and fine feeding root hairs. The sooner the root system is rejuvenated the sooner the plant recovers from transplant shock. From this point onwards the plant is in vegetative stage.
Vegetative Stage
Once the seedling has been transplanted it then enters the vegetative stage. This stage is to ensure the development of a strong and healthy root system while the leaf canopy begins to expand. A healthy, well developed root system is required for fast growing, high yielding plants. Most of the plants nutrients and water is taken up through the root system; the plant also stores sugars in the roots. Without the support of a good root system the plant will not be able to perform at its peak.
To create a healthy root system, a grower should ensure that the ppm levels and the pH of the nutrient system are correctly balanced. Over-feeding by the grower to try and push the plant or to try and get a bit extra out of the plant will only result in a damaged root system and a stunted or slow growing plant. For soil growers, a pH of 6.3-6.5 is ideal. The ppm of the nutrient solution should be between 500 - 700 for early vegetative growth and 800 – 1000 for late vegetative growth. Soil growers should also use Rooters Mycorrhizae in the growing medium. Mycorrhiza needs to be mixed into the soil prior to planting. Mycorrhizae fungi works well with organic nutrients, as conventional nutrients can damage this fungi, especially if the grower tries to push his plants to a maximum. For hydroponics growers the nutrient solution should be balanced to a pH of between 5.8 and 6.2; pH 6 being ideal. Rooting enhancers such as Rhizotonic or Green Fuse Root should be used through out the vegetative cycle. Fast growing roots require phosphorus so a nutrient with good phosphate levels should be used. Looking after the plants root system also ensures the maximum development of the leaf canopy. A healthy disease and insect-free leaf canopy will make maximum use of the lighting system it is growing under. For plants that are phototropic, such as strawberries, the plant will remain in vegetative state as long as the light duration is long days short nights e.g. 18 hours of lighting and 6 hours of darkness. Some plants e.g. Tomatoes, will begin flowering once they have reached a specific maturity. Tomatoes will flower after being in the vegetative state for about two months. Plants that are phototropic will begin flowering once the day length shortens or when switching from an eighteen hour light cycle to a twelve hour light cycle.
19. How do I take clones from a plant?
1. Select a branch or stem that has at least 2 or 3 sets of leaves.
2. Locate a spot on the branch between, or next to, a set of leaf nodes where your cut will be made (leaf nodes are where the branches come out of the stem). Leave at least one set of nodes above the cut.
3. Make a clean, neat, 45 degree slice with a razor blade or knife. It is important that you do not damage the branch while handling.
4. Remove the lower 1 or 2 sets of branches (stems and leaves), leaving the upper sets of leaves to be placed above the growing medium line. Trim any flowers or buds that remain (if necessary; refer to picture below).
5. To prevent an air bubble (embolism) from lodging in the stem where the cut is, immediately dip the base of the cutting into a quality cloning gel, like Olivia’s or RooTech. Place cutting into your growing medium.
6. Keep your growing medium moist and warm with bottom heat at all times for best results. Never let your growing medium dry out.
7. Check your growing medium and transfer cuttings once roots appear or a strong root ball is established.
TIPS ON CLONING:
* The quality of your water should be considered before taking cuttings. Reverse Osmosis or drinking water would be an excellent choice.
* The pH should be adjusted to between 5.5 and 6.2 by the time roots begin to develop.
* It is essential that your cuttings (clones) be taken from healthy plants.
* Rockwool should be pretreated by using Rockwool Soak, or soaking overnight in water with a pH of about 5.0.
* Be gentle when taking cuttings. They can shock easily when cut.
* Always use a sterile growing medium; be it rockwool, soil, vermiculite, perlite, sand, etc. Never use soil from your garden.
* Always keep tools clean to avoid transmitting disease to open plant wounds. Sterilize them before each use if possible.
* Keep your growing medium warm at all times for best results. Bottom heat (with a heating mat) will help cuttings root faster. Bottom heat: 75-85F (24-30C). Greenhouse/indoor temperature (air, bench level):70F (21C).
* High humidity, just until roots begin to emerge) aids in rooting your cuttings. A plastic cover (humidity dome or tent) will increase your percentage of roots cuttings.
* Don't forget all plants need fresh air. If your cuttings show signs of wilting, cut some holes in your humidity dome/tent to allow air ventilation.
* Remember to keep your room temperature warm during the night or lights-out cycle if propagating indoors. Add a space heater if necessary.
* Excessive watering will kill your cuttings. Never leave any water standing in the tray (unless using an aeroponic cloning system). It is best to briefly water the plants and then transfer them to a dry tray.
* To achieve a uniform cutting you may trim the leaves. Try to keep all your cuttings around the same height. This allows each cutting to receive the same amount of light.
* If you are using outdoor sunlight, screen your cuttings from the direct sun or place in a shady area under a tree.
* If you are using fluorescent lighting you may (and should) place your lights within a few inches of the tops of your plants without burning them.
* If using high intensity discharge (HID) lighting, either sodium or metal halide, give cuttings a full 18 hours of light. A 6 hour night cycle is recommended for optimum results. Be sure to have the bulb 24-36 inches above your cuttings.
* Due to the amount of heat HID lamps put out, keep the lights within a safe distance above your cuttings or you will burn them.
* Once roots appear, your cuttings can take stronger, more intense light, either HID or outdoor sunlight. Place your lights as close as possible, without burning them. A good rule of thumb id if you can keep your hand at the same level as your plants without discomfort then they should be fine. In other words, the closer the lights are to your plants, the faster your plants will grow. Transplant as soon as vigorous roots appear.
FINAL NOTE:
Every plant and growing situation is different, so the length of time it takes roots to appear will vary from a week to a month or more depending on the type of plant (and environment).
|
Sign In
